Across the Range with Greg

March 2026 | Serra do Espinhaço, Minas Gerais

Field notes and photographs from our 13-day crossing of the Espinhaço with ecologist Greg Hocutt.

Field Capture. Day 7

I.

In early March, Elisa and I had the privilege of guiding ecologist Greg Hocutt in the Espinhaço for 13 days.

He’d come to scout future field expeditions for his students in Arizona, and to deepen his own understanding of the Cerrado.

March is the tail end of the rainy season in the Espinhaço, and this year was wetter than most. That said, in my mind (although not necessarily in Elisa’s), any time is a good time for a two-week crossing of the range, and this trip was no exception.

Over the course of the expedition, we covered nearly 560 km of fluorescent green, saturated high savannah ground—mostly by vehicle, over very rough roads. We visited 6 conservation units, overnighting in two, and 10 communities, overnighting in five. Waterfalls weren’t a priority of the expedition, but we came across 12 (and enjoyed all of them).

In 13 days on the road and trail, we came across just three other travelers: a young couple from nearby Montes Claros, and a Spanish woman who was traveling the country after visiting friends in Maceió.

This was my third time guiding Greg in the range, but it was our first long-form expedition together. It was, as always, an absolute pleasure to hit the road with him, to explore the many different landscapes and (new word alert) “phytophysiognomies” of the Cerrado, and to spend time with him in the small communities of the Espinhaço.

I have so much more to say about this crossing, and I’ll return to it soon. For now, here are some photographs from yet another wet & wild March in the range.

Eddie

Mist/Serra + Savannah.
Serrinha, Day 2

Gaúcha parked on a white sand landscape under a clear blue sky during an overland expedition in Sempre Vivas National Park, Brazil

White Sand. Sempre Vivas. Day 9

Checking the road conditions in Fazenda Burití, Sempre Vivas National Park

Checking the Road.
Fazenda Burití, Day 6

Greg hiking in a field of campo limpo in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Minas Gerais, with stormclouds above

Drizzle. Serrinha, Day 2

Gaúcha driving through a grassy field on the road to Taquaral, Sempre Vivas National Park

High Campo Road. Taquaral, Day 9

River Road.
Rio Preto State Park, Day 4

An overhead shot of Cachoeira dos Crioulos in Rio Preto State Park, Minas Gerais

Cachoeira dos Criolous.
Rio Preto, Day 4

Hikers walking through a green grassy field with mountains in the background under an overcast sky in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Serra do Espinhaço

Into the serra. Day 2

Walking down a stone pathway lined with green cypress trees to Raquel's house in Conselheiro Mata, Minas Gerais

Alice’s House.
Conselheiro Mata, Day 9

Two boys swimming in a clear water lake under blue skies, Lagoa Azul, Guinda, Minas Gerais

Kiddy pool. Guinda, Day 13

Backroad.
Pinheiros, Day 7

Greg checking his phone at night at the Vila de Santa Bárbara, Serra do Espinhaço

Work calls. Santa Bárbara, Day 10

Greg crouching down to photograph a plant in Sempre Vivas National PArk

Details. Sempre Vivas NP, Day 9

Brigadistas. Day 9

Greg and Marcos Guião on the trail in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Minas Gerais

With Marcos. São Gonçalo, Day 2

Greg and Marcos Guião examining plants on the trail in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Minas Gerais

With Elisa. Inhaí, Day 6

Greg and Deco standing on a rocky ledge above a waterfall in Rio Preto State Park, Serra do Espinhaço

With Deco. Rio Preto, Day 4

Greg and Sidimar having a conversation at night in front of the Casa Kolping in Sempre Vivas National Park, Brazil

With Sidmar. Sempre vivas, Day 8

Cachoeira do Comércio.
São Gonçalo, Day 2

Water cascading over rocks and green vegetation at a waterfall in Curimataí, Minas Gerais

Cachoeira de Curimataí.
Curimataí, Day 12

Portrait of Greg at Cachoeira do Borocotó, Inhai, Minas Gerais

Cachoeira do Borotó.
Sempre Vivas, Day 6

Cachoeira dos Borges in Curimataí, Serra do Espinhaço

Cachoeira dos Borges.
Curimataí, Day 12

Black and white photo of Cachoeira das Fadas in Conselheiro Mata, Minas Gerais

Cachoeira das Fadas.
Conselheiro Mata, Day 10

Trekking at Cachoeira da Sempre-Vivas in Rio Preto State Park, Serra do Espinhaço

Cachoeira da Sempre Viva.
Rio Preto, Day 4

“Rosa-do-campo” (Kielmeyera rubiflora). Biribiri, Day 8

Close-up of small blue wildflowers in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Serra do Espinhaço

“Azulzinha” (Lithodora diffusa). Serrinha, Day 2

Close-up of small white fungi growing on dark tree bark in a forest in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Minas Gerais

Fungi. São Gonçalo, Day 9

Close-up of a bright orange wildflower with star-shaped petals in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Minas Gerais

Cerrado Wildflower. Rio Preto, Day 4

Close-up of a spherical cluster of tiny white flowers with green and brown accents in São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Serra do Espinhaço

Vassourinho-de-botão (Spermacoce verticillata). Rio Preto, Day 3

Well deserved nap. Day 12

Greg looking at colorful children's books at the school library in Conselheiro Mata, Minas Gerais

School library.
Conselheiro Mata, Day 11

Dimly lit night scene of the old textile mill in Vila de Santa Bárbara, Serra do Espinhaço

The old fábrica. Santa Bárbara, Day 9

A black clay pot filled with frango com ora-pro-nóbis at a restaurant in Biribiri State Park, Minas Gerais

Cosetlinha com ora pro nobris. Aroeira, Day 7

Camping underneath an overcast sky at Casa Kolping in Sempre Vivas National Park, Serra do Espinhaço

Casa Kolping.
Sempre Vivas National Park, Day 9

last sunset.
Cachoeira do Curimataí, Day 12