The Financial Times Expedition
Field notes, photographs & musings from our exclusive 14-day expedition across the Serra do Espinhaço with esteemed author & journalist Paul Richardson of the Financial Times.
The Road Home. Day 13
I.
Sign of a good Time
It’s been nearly a month since we got back from our expedition with Paul, and not a day goes by that we don’t think about it.
Doubt. Day 1
The Quest. Day 12
roads. Day 6
Aquele Abraço. Day 13
Black River Crossing. Day 11
Crash. Day 11
“Gift of go Face”. Day 12
II. 1
The Owls
The journey was Paul’s, but the mission was all of ours. There isn’t a crew on earth I’d rather bushwhack, off-road, or party with. #GOGOFace
Júlio. Day 4
Elisa. Day 6
Xaxau. Day 6
Paul. Day 5
Eddie. Day 8
Dorico & Zekinho. Day 12
II.
The MESTRES
We can only go so deep into the Story of Brazil without them.
João. Day 12
Zekinho. Day 12
Santo. Day 4
Zé. Day 4
Ezdra. Day 6
Barbosa. Day 7
Noêmia. Day 3
Dona Maria. Day 3
Halfway to Macacos. Day 12
II.
The Importance of alignment
Standing outside of the airport, just moments after he’d arrived, I asked Paul why he had come. “Honestly”, he said. “I’m hoping for a cathartic experience.” He could have picked any of a million words, and none would have made me happier.
Let’s get in this. Day 8
II.
All Hail April
We had never attempted a multi-week trip in April before. It was absolutely awesome.
Evening colors. Day 6
Capão de mata. Day 8
Paepalanthus. Day 2
Santa Rita. Day 11
Look Behind You. Day 4
Shower Time. Day 3
Morning on the Inhacicão. Day 7
Paepalanthus chiquitensis. Day 5
Almost there. Day 5
III.
Good Vibes
There were bushwhacking days, long riding days & nights, stretches of arduous off-roading, and unplanned treks in the dark. Most importantly, though, were the incalculable moments of joy, camaraderie, and victory.
Party at deco’s. Day 5
Waterfall-bound. Day 7
Noêmia. Day 2
Stuck. Day 8
Chow. Day 3
Best Buteco Ever. Braúnas
Still Going. DAy 4
“Gringos, not grecos”. Day 10
everything all at once. Santa Rita
III.
What does luxury mean, anyway?
It’s meaning was one of many recurring themes (and inside jokes) of the expedition. We spend a lot of time thinking about this, and we’ve arrived at our own conclusion. If you’ve never thought about it before, it may take you places.
Party at deco’s. Day 5
Waterfall-bound. Day 7
Stuck. Day 8
Chow. Day 3
Best Buteco Ever. Braúnas
Still Going. DAy 4
Unexpected Company. Inhacicão
everything all at once. Santa Rita
IV.
A few centuries ago, the Espinhaço was connected. Economically, logistically, and culturally. Time & circumstance has caused it to drift apart in recent centuries, but something is happening. Being thanked by Gomercindo was one of the most rewarding moments of my life.
Father & Son. Day 6
Father & Son. Day 8
Husband & Wife. Day 4
Sisters. Day 6
Old Friends. Day 7
Old Friends. Day 12
Beach-Bound. Day 6
V.
Day 8 was Magical
Even on paper, Day 8 was always going to be the most challenging day of the expedition. With 9 km of bushwhacking, 6 km of open trails, 25 km of precarious off-roading, and a 20-km golden hour descent via horseback, it was the kind of day where everything would need to go right in order for us to make it from Point A to Point B. Then reality hit and our support vehicle got lost, then stuck in the mud, then stuck in the mud again, all in the remote high campos of Sempre Vivas.
Xaxau blamed himself for the events, but it was his heroics under pressure that allowed us to continue our journey westward, culminating in a thrilling, once-in-a-lifetime ride down the western escarpment of the Espinhaço beneath the stars.
Day 8 was supposed to be the climax of our expedition. It ended up being one of the most epic days of our lives.
Legs. Day 8
Inspecting the road. Day 8
Quick Thinking. Day 8
A Legend is born. Day 8
What a crew! Day 8
VI.
We’ve spent over 3 years in the Serra do Espinhaço Meridional (the geomorphological name for the mountainous countryside surrounding Diamantina, Minas Gerais) now. We’ve spent 200+ days on the trail, including 9 multi-week expeditions. Each & every single trip has been unique—regardless of the route, but this one was special.
We can’t wait for the next one.
Almost. Day 12
Table Wine. Day 11
Abençoada. Day 2
Halfway. Day 8
Pinga-Fogo’s house. Mendes
Good Vibes. Day 12