
the secret garden
16 days
haunting beauty / thunderous falls. Flowers & Floodplains. forsaken homes, lost BEACHES, nameless peaks, and life in the untamed heart of the brazilian savannah.
Carrapatos (ticks). October, 2021
Foreword
Diamonds / Wild Tales + Lost Trails was originally conceived as a 6-week trek across the Serra do Espinhaço. Over the course of two years, we whittled the experience down to its current (21- & 28-day) formats, leaving a truly spectacular—yet undeniably raw—gem on the cutting-room floor.
This is the Story of Sempre Vivas National Park.

At A Glance
A journey into the untamed heart of one of the wildest (& wettest) wonderlands on earth.
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This is the most challenging experience we offer. 16 days of exploration of the mountainous backcountry of Minas Gerais that will leave you thinner and with a deeper understanding of the history, culture, and nature of Brazil than you ever imagined.
Bushwhacking, off-roading, and horseback riding over mountainous terrain; primitive accommodations & hearty homemade meals in isolated communities; remote campsites in pristine wilderness areas; spectacular waterfalls, daily river crossings, and the most biologically-diverse ecosystem in the most biologically-diverse country on the planet.
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Breakfast in bed; luxurious accommodations; room service; fine dining; wine tastings; 2022 jeep wranglers (or similar); strong WiFi; consistent cellular service; television; shampoos, conditioners, and hand lotions.
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8 days / 7 nights
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This trip can be done as an extension of our 21-day trek through the Serra do Espinhaco (for a grand total of 28-days / 27 nights). See our Diamonds, Wild Tales, and Lost Trails page for more information.
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2 (min) - 8 (max) travelers + 4 full-time crew members + eight (8) part-time crew members.
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5/5. This is by far the most challenging experience we offer, featuring multiple long hikes, overnight treks, and lots of 4x4 driving over challenging mountain terrain.
Treks vary from challenging (bushwacking through heavily-forested trails for 15+ km per day) to relatively easy (open trails on wide dirt roads & grassy fields for 20km per day). River crossings are frequent during the wet season, and there is potential for long (30+ km) days, depending on weather & the situation on the ground.
Bushwacking & insects (especially red ticks & mosquitos) are realities of the trail—the natural consequences of intimate contact with pristine wilderness areas in this part of the country.
Lightning is a real danger in Sempre Vivas, especially during the spring & summer months (Oct - Mar).
Homestays (X of the XX nights) in remote communities—several of which are impoverished & lack creature comforts—are an enriching, unmissable experience, but don’t always provide the best night’s sleep.
We think most determined & reasonably-fit travelers will be at home on this trip, but we do not recommend it for inexperienced hikers or first-time international travelers.
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Cerrado (Brazilian savannah), Mata Atlantica (Atlantic Rainforest)
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Departing April 1, May 1, June 1
Highlights

what's included
5 full-time crew members. 42 meals. 3+ years of research & development.
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15 homestays
6 nights in local pousadas (inns)
2 nights in hotels (Day 1 & Day 20)
1 night in a Brazilian-style resort
2 wild campsites
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28 breakfasts
10 lunches
20 dinners
Trail Snacks
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All ground transportation in Brazil, from touchdown to take-off. Includes:
Round-trip transfer to/from Belo Horizonte - Diamantina (Mercedes Sprinter Van)
Emergency ground transportation as necessary (Toyota Bandeirante Land Cruiser; Honda Dirtbike)
Horses (optional use during days 8-9)
Two (2) Pack Mules
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Two (2) full-time Expedition Leaders / Country Guides / Translators
One (1) full-time Naturalist / Regional Guide
One (1) full-time Support Guide
One (1) part-time Guest guide / biologist
4 Part-time Local guides
2 Part-time drivers
1 Mule driver
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One (1) 7-seat 4x4 primary vehicle
One (1) 4-seat 4x4 support vehicle
One (1) support motorcycle
Tents?
Climbing ropes
Ropes
2-Way Radios
First-aid Supplies:
Bandages
Etc???
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Expedition Dossier + Welcome Packet (provided pre-trip)
GoGo Journal & pencils (provided upon arrival; because there will be nights without WiFi!)
Macunaima, a novel (ditto)
Memory Card with photos & videos from the trip (provided post-trip)
GoGo Tee Shirt (provided post-trip)
GoGo patch / sticker (provided post-trip)
Emergency Whistle (provided upon arrival)
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Sempre Vivas National Park
Rio Preto State Park
Biribiri State Park
Itambe State Park
Diamond Museum (Diamantina)
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Pre-expedition meeting
Film session
Closing interview
Big cats. Bad roads. Disputed lands. Lots (& lots) of water. And Actinocephalus & Paepalanthus Eriocaulaceae.
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In Diamonds / Wild Tales + Lost Trails, we traverse historic trails: Estrada Real, tropeiro mule trails, and forbidden descaminhos.
In this expedition, we’ll be bushwacking.
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There’s a saying among garimpeiros in the Espinhaço that “all stones look like diamonds, but diamonds don’t look like any other stone”. The same might be said about Sempre Vivas National Park, a vast expanse of pristine high-altitude savannah that certainly doesn’t feel like any other stretch of cerrado in the region.
Spanning 1,241 km2 (roughly the size of Los Angeles), but with just a dozen full-time inhabitants, Sempre Vivas is the deep outback of a region that could itself justifiably be described as the outback. Untamed, spectacular, and controversial, the Park is a true undiscovered gem—it’s genuinely shocking how few tourists from Brazil & abroad make their way here.
We’ll spend 5 days in & around the far southwestern extent of the Park, including 2 glorious days traversing & camping along the Rio Preto trail, recently named one of the 5 most beautiful treks in Brazil by Go Outside magazine. We don’t expect to see anyone else.
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"Sempre-vivas" é o nome dado no Brasil a partes de plantas, geralmente escapos e inflorescências, que conservam a aparência de estruturas vivas mesmo depois de destacadas e secas e que são comercializadas e exportadas para decoração de interiores (GIULIETTI, 1996), dentre elas destaca-se a família Eriocaulaceae.
Eriocaulaceae é uma família botânica de monocotiledôneas composta por aproximadamente 1200 espécies (GIULIETTI & HENSOLD, 1990 apud COSTA et al, 2008) reunidas em 10 gêneros de distribuição tropical. O principal centro de diversidade 130 encontra-se na Cadeia do Espinhaço, em Minas Gerais. Segundo Giulietti et al (2010, apud COSTA et al, 2008), no Brasil ocorrem 629 espécies desta família e, na Cadeia do Espinhaço, as estimativas indicam a ocorrência de 380 espécies, sendo 85% endêmicas.
Rapini (2008) faz uma extensa revisão sobre estudos florísticos realizados ao longo da Cadeia do Espinhaço, e eles concentram-se principalmente na Serra do Cipó e Grão Mogol em Minas Gerais, e Chapada Diamantina e Pico das Almas, na Bahia. O mesmo autor afirma que os microendemismos são característicos da região da Cadeia do Espinhaço e que os levantamentos florísticos em áreas de campos rupestres são garantias de novidades taxonômicas.
O levantamento de eriocauláceas realizado no Parque Nacional das Sempre-Vivas corrobora tal citação. Até o momento já foram identificadas 60 espécies de Eriocaulaceae no Parque. Entre elas há uma nova espécie do gênero Paepalanthus, que está sendo descrita, e o recente registro de Actinocephalus compactus no norte do PNSV, até então conhecido por um único material (tipo) coletado no século XIX pelo naturalista George Gardner. Dentre as espécies já identificadas, oito são consideradas como espécies raras do Cerrado, segundo Giulietti et al, (2009), e destas, cinco estão ameaçadas de extinção (MARTINELLI et al, 2013), são elas: Actinocephalus stereophyllus, Leiothrix luxurians, Paepalanthus albidus, P. rupestris e Syngonanthus hygrotrichus (Informação Pessoal de FABIANE NEPOMUCENO COSTA, 2014).
Quanto às espécies de Eriocaulaceae ameaçadas consideradas “não raras”, há uma espécie no PNSV: Comanthera elegans conhecida como sempre-viva pé-de-ouro. O status de ameaça está configurado pela Instrução Normativa MMA n0 06/2008 e revisão em 2014 pela Portaria 443/2014 do Ministério do Meio Ambiente. A espécie ocorre em toda a extensão do PNSV, e potencialmente nas áreas mapeadas de campos de sempre-vivas apresentado no mapa de vegetação.
Os estudos com Eriocaulaceae no PNSV tiveram início em 2013, motivados pelo Plano de Ação Nacional para conservação das sempre-vivas. Tais estudos estão ainda no início, muitos espécimes coletados durante as expedições de campo ocorridas em 2013 encontram-se em fase de identificação pelos especialistas e, estimativas apontam que o número total de espécies dentro do PNSV pode chegar a mais de uma centena.
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The gypsy woman who convinced an unsuspecting miner to leave his purse of “cursed” diamonds in her capable hands for the evening. The mysterious “captain” who came by river, made an unscrupulous fortune, and spent the rest of his days as a Robin Hood-type backcountry fugitive. The rancher who was hugged to death by a giant eater near Inhai. The orphan girl who was raised in a cave near Biribiri.
Welcome to the Serra do Espinhaço, where miners, mule-drivers, and other mestres of the backcountry recount the colorful history of the (not-so-distant) “good ol’ days” to barkeeps, house guests, and any of the rest of us who take interest. We, for one, love to listen.
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According to the UN, a staggering 89% of Brazilians now reside within urban areas (typically defined as population centers with 2,000+ inhabitants; compared to 56% of people worldwide). Our Expedition will cast a light on life for the forgotten 11%.
We’ll pass through 16 communities during our trek, overnighting in 15 of them. From UNESCO World Heritage city Diamantina (pop. 50,000), to far-flung Santa Rita (pop. < 10), each & every community on our itinerary has its own compelling character, setting, and reason for being.
The quilombos of Capivari, Bica d’Agua, and Quarteis do Indaiá; the historic communities of Mendanha, Curralinho, São João da Chapada, Macacos, Santo Antônio do Itambé, and São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras; the historic villas of Biribiri and Santa Barbara; the remote mountain hamlets of Pinheiros and Abóboras; and the sertanejo town of Curimataí.
Travelers opting for our 8-day extension (“The Secret Garden”) will also visit the frontier town of Conselheiro Mata, sleepy Barao de Guiacui (pop. 50), and Mendes (pop. 1), and experience places where the word “community” is a stretch of the word by any imagination.
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UNESCO World Heritage City. Terminus of the fabled Estrada Real. Living testament to Portuguese Baroque & Rococo architecture. Former diamond capital of the New World.
Diamantina somehow manages to be all of this & more: the cultural capital of the Espinhaco; a vibrant college town at the crossroads of the past & present; the spiritual, economic, and logistical center of the region.
Even UNESCO couldn’t resist the (truly) inevitable cliché, describing it as “a colonial village set like a jewel in a necklace of inhospitable rocky mountains.”
And yet, Diamantina (pop. 49,500) remains largely unvisited, known to current generations primarily as a former Carnaval town & provincial backwater.
When people ask us what we like so much about Diamantina, we tell them “It’s a tourist Mecca without tourists.”
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Tropeiro. Torresmo. Frango com quiabo. If you’re unfamiliar with the hearty regional cuisine of Minas Gerais, you will be by the end of the trip—and Brazilians everywhere will be jealous.
While the Serra do Espinhaco doesn’t enjoy the same claims to culinary fame as other, wealthier parts of the state (especially the Campos dos Vertentes region), you can still expect generous portions of savory comfort foods cooked in rustic cast-iron pots over wood-fired stoves.
Treats unique to the region include angu, quitanda, carne de sol (ubiqitous throughout the sertao, but nowhere in Minas south of the Espinhaco), frango caipira, and queijo do Serro, a locally-produced semi-cured cheese that has won awards internationally & generated a promising amount of culinary hype around the Serro microregion in the process.
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We’re always say that the difference between arriving in a small community (pop. <20) by jeep and by foot is the difference between arriving in a ghost town & a metropolis.
Exaggeration or not, there is nothing quite like being received graciously by kind souls in “the middle of nowhere” after a full day (& sometimes night) of trekking through the harsh elements.
Having the opportunity to experience how folks truly live in this part of the world is a privilege few will ever know. Being able to enjoy a home-cooked meal and (where possible) a hot bath is even better.
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The 2nd largest ecosystem in South America (behind the Amazon), the cerrado is the most biodiverse savannah on earth, and one of 25 world-recognized ecological “hotspots” due to its prolific endemism.
Colloquially-speaking, the sertão refers to the inhospitable hinterlands of the Brazilian northeast, a landscape legendary in its… and famous for its unforgiving weather. Sun-blistered, scorched
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Before diamonds, flowers, tourism, the Serra do Espinhaco was a story about water. And ultimately it is water—not natural beauty—that has protected the region once again.
As the birthplace of several of Brazil’s most strategically important rivers (including the Jequitinonha, Doce, and San Francisco), the Espinhaco . Waterfalls cascade down all sides of it into the surrounding sertao
to the seasonal rains that taper off in March just prior to our departure dates in 2022. The waters are present in April & May, however: in the form of gushing waterfalls, plentiful springs, and high rivers. Swimming, crossing, drinking… are some of the highlights of any trek through the backcountry on warm mountain days.
Her Majesty, the life-giving, white sand beached Rio Jequitinonha, fabled of garimpos and
O Parque Nacional das Sempre-Vivas faz parte do divisor de águas das Bacias dos rios São Francisco e Jequitinhonha e possui áreas representativas de recarga hídrica com mais de 600 nascentes. Abriga alguns cursos d´água de importância regional como o rio Inhacica, que é um berçário natural e provê aporte de peixes ao rio Jequitinhonha, onde deságua; o rio Inhaí que empresta o nome a um dos maiores distritos de Diamantina; o rio Preto, afluente do Curimataí, que por sua vez deságua no rio das Velhas e o rio Jequitaí, afluente do rio São Francisco. As águas que descem a serra abastecem a maioria das comunidades do entorno da UC, isso impõe uma missão primordial que é a manutenção e conservação das nascentes e das áreas de recarga destes cursos d’água que se encontram no interior do Parque.
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The Mosaic (colloquially referred to as simply os parques, or “the Parks”) represents the single largest challenge facing the Serra do Espinhaco today.
While most of the region’s denizens today recognize the inherent beauty of the region and indisputable importance of the waters flowing from it, the gradual yet persistent creation of protected areas on previously privately-held lands is viewed by many as the overreach of an inept government at best, and the encroachment of an indifferent & destructive force at worst.
The issue at stake is largely economic: the Serra do Espinhaco harbors an abundance of rare & precious minerals in one of the historically most-impoverished places in Brazil. The trenches are the tiny communities located at the outskirts of each Park, who suddenly find themselves divided by a proxy-war showdown much larger than themselves.
and current boomtown The neighboring community of Conceicao do Mato Dentro serve as a cautionary tale to locals of all stripes.
Some point to tourism as the way forward, with the beauty of the region supplanting diamonds & flowers. Others point to the lack of tourism in the area today as a sign of the government’s inability to supplant the resources, and the need for the region to make money now.
With environmentalists & industry lobbyists both marking fervent pleas to local government officials, the future of the region’s resources—and economy—remains murky.
Neves et al (2011), concluem em sua revisão sobre efeitos do fogo em
eriocauláceas que o manejo do fogo deve ser adotado em áreas onde pretende-se
conservar populações desta família, portanto, planos de manejo para Eriocaulaceae devem
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incluir a aplicação de queimadas periódicas, contemplando a diversidade de histórias de
vida encontradas na família.
Uma estratégia menos ousada seria simular a ocorrência natural de incêndios em
sua área de distribuição. Outra seria elaborar um planejamento baseado em estudos
experimentais sobre os efeitos do fogo em populações de cada espécie ou grupos de
espécies. No entanto, cada tipo de vegetação está sujeito a diferentes regimes de fogo e
deve ser manejado de forma específica (DELLASALA et al, 2004, BOND & KEELEY, 2005,
apud NEVES et al, 2011). Como não é possível favorecer todos os grupos biológicos ao
adotar-se uma estratégia de manejo de fogo, deve-se optar por conservar determinadas
espécies raras, ameaçadas ou de interesse, considerando uma escala espacial restrita.
Porém, em escalas mais abrangentes, deve-se adotar um mosaico de medidas de manejo
que contemplem a totalidade ou a maior parte dos organismos e ecossistemas (NEVES et
al, 2011), além de adotar um sistema de monitoramento da comunidade vegetal.
No intuito de investigar o manejo das eriocauláceas, tanto para sua preservação,
quanto para a exploração comercial fora de unidades de conservação, o PNSV realizou em
2012 um seminário reunindo os maiores especialistas da família botânica a fim de
sistematizar os conhecimentos e indicações para o manejo das sempre-vivas. Os resultados
apontam o uso do fogo como uma necessidade para aumentar a floração das plantas, o
que é interessante tanto para o extrativismo, como para a manutenção/recuperação das
populações. Porém, o relatório aponta que a ocorrência de fogo em intervalos de menos
de três anos tende a ser prejudicial para grande número de plantas, inclusive
eriocauláceas, cujas plântulas não resistem ao fogo (ICMBio, 2013b). A manutenção das
populações de sempre-vivas e a presença de grandes florações são interessantes atrativos
para a visitação no Parque Nacional das Sempre-Vivas.
Dessa forma, faz-se necessário investir em ações e pesquisas para o manejo do fogo
para conservação das espécies, visto que as fisionomias de campos podem ser
beneficiadas p
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Item description


Setting
There’s a saying among garimpeiros in the Espinhaço that “all stones look like diamonds, but diamonds don’t look like any other stone”.
The same could be said about Sempre Vivas National Park, a vast & unvisited expanse of pristine high-altitude savannah that certainly doesn’t feel like any other stretch of cerrado in the region…
levi. taquarau (Day 4)
Itinerary (16 days)
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If you’re joining us from abroad, we’ll be picking you up in the bustling, understated Mineiro capital of Belo Horizonte and overlanding to the colonial capital of the Serra do Espinhaco, Diamantina.
If you’ve just completed Diamonds / Wild Tales + Lost Trails with us (in which case congratulations & some much-needed rest are in order), our journey will continue as soon as the BH crew arrives in Diamantina.
From here, we’ll head north in 4x4s across dirt, asphalt, stone, and water to one of the most remote & hauntingly beautiful settings in the Espinhaco: Campos São Domingo.
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There is a song about far-flung district Inhai (pop. 2,000): no one wants to go, once there, no one wants to leave. One of the oldest settlements in the region, Inhai has one road in, little wealth, and is considered by most in the region to be the absolute end of the line of civilization. For us, it will serve as the beginning; the last inhabited place we’ll see on our journey until Curimatai (Day 10), on the opposite side of the serra.
Vargem do Inhai
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Item description
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Cast & Crew
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Eddie Lott
Expedition Leader + Country Guide + Translator
The bumper sticker on his ‘89 Toyota Bandeirante (Brazilian Land Cruiser) may read “Lost Texan”, but Dallas-born Eddie has dedicated much of his life to Brazilian politics, culture, and economics for the better part of 2 decades.
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Elisa Oliveira
Expedition Coordinator + Country Guide
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Julio Brabo
Regional guide + Naturalist
The difference between a good guide & a great one is the calling. Jovial, passionate, knowledgeable, and impossibly fit, Julio is a natural-born mountain guide serving on the front lines of community tourism in the only place he’s ever dreamed of calling home: the Serra do Espinhaco.
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Napoleao Nascimento
Support Guide + Security
A former Municipal Guard with a Bachelor’s degree in Tourism and a Masters in Georeferencing, Napoleao hails from a long line of Diamantina family. His family’s ranch in the Sempre Vivas National Park is one of the most impressive wilderness areas in the region.
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Minelli
Description goes here

recap
16 days. 3 UNESCO sites. 153km of trails. 296km of backroads. 8 waterfalls. 6 crew members. 3 rivers. 5,000 species of plants. And one of the most pristine stretches of high savannah on earth.
Pack List
From trail snacks to passports, a comprehensive guide to what we recommend & require you to bring on this Expedition.
Odds & Ends
Prerequisites
No prior camping or outdoor experience is required.
Gogo requires that all applicants for this expedition undergo a complete physical examination & receive their physician’s approval in writing prior to final acceptance on the expedition.
applicants must be 25 years of age or older.
Additional Reading:
A Flower & A Way of Life in Peril, Scientific American
Life on the rocks in Brazil’s Campo Rupestre, the guardian
Explorations of the highlands of Brazil, Sir richard burton
getting there & away.
while our team is more than happy to offer suggestions regarding travel arrangements to & from Brazil, please be aware that gift of go does not make airfare reservations or book flights on behalf of clients.
What’s Not Included
Airfare
Trip cancellation insurance or any other travel insurance
Visas
Any meal or activity not described in What's Included
Trail snacks
Meals on your own
tents, backpacks, sleeping bags, sleeping pads, trekking poles, or any other Equipment not listed
Gratuities
Travel Insurance
A minimum level of medical & emergency travel insurance is required in order to travel with us. Details are outlined in our Terms & Conditions, and you will not be permitted to join the group until you have provided evidence of adequate travel insurance. Please feel free to contact us about any questions you have pertaining to insurance, and read our trip details page to learn more about recommended policy options.
CONNECTIVITY NOTES
Cellular connection throughout the region is sparse…………… wifi is available for….
3 Dates (2023)
The summer rains in the serra do espinhaco taper off in March, filling waterfalls (& roads) and draping the cerrado in all shades of green.
april & may are lush, with warm days, cool nights, and a chance of rain. june marks the beginning of winter, with lovely, crisp mountain weather & hardly a cloud in the sky, but plenty of dust on the trail.
April 1
16 Days
6 crew members
8 travelers (Max)
Fly Date: April 22
May 1
16 Days
6 crew members
8 travelers (Max)
Fly Out Date: May 22
June 1
16 Days
6 crew members
8 travelers (Max)
Fly out Date: June 22
FAQs
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You’ll need to be physically fit enough to trek an average of 20km (maximum 45km) per day over challenging mountainous terrain for 21 days in warm, sunny weather. The altitude is relatively low for mountains terrain, but the nature of the trails themselves (which are overgrown in parts) and presence of insects & flora can turn otherwise easy hikes into challenges. While our experience is that the trek generally gets easier as the trip goes along (allowing us to settle into a rhythm), each individual is different, and variables include sleep schedule, food intake, alcohol consumption, and hygiene, as well as external factors like rain, cloud cover (or lack thereof), and terrain consistency. We have trekked alongside travelers with zero long-distance trekking experience who have done extraordinary, as well as with former athletes who struggled greatly. If you are at all concerned that your fitness level may present a challenge, we encourage you to speak with your trusted medical advisor.
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That’s a great question. Booking is first-come, first-serve, but for logistical purposes we strongly recommend that you try to book your space with us at least 90 days in advance.
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We do! While we felt that 21 days (with the possibility of an 8-day extension through Sempre Vivas, via our The Secret Garden expedition) was the best fit for an itinerary in the Serra do Espinhaco, we’re happy to put together customer trips of any length. If you’d like to chat, please feel free to drop us a line.
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We do! While our Expeditions have a maximum of 8 travelers per trip, we are happy to put together custom private trips for groups of all sizes. For more information, please feel free to drop us a line.
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To book a slot on this Expedition, please drop us a line or continue to the Application section at the bottom of this page and we’ll walk you through the steps from there.
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While Gift of Go doesn’t handle airfare, we are more than happy to recommend flights, accommodations, and anything else you might need to help you get here comfortably by the time the expedition starts. For more information, feel free to drop us a line or contact us here.
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That’s a great question, and one we don’t know the answer to quite yet (as of July 2022). While we hope to run the Expedition 3 times in 2024, we’re remaining flexible at this point due to the launch of our next Expedition.
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Item description
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the view strikes at once: a photo essay of the Serra do Espinhaco meridional & its inhabitants
$16,000
Um Traveler
$14,500
Dois Travelers (per traveler)
YOU’LL BE TAKEN TO OUR APPLICATION PAGE, AND WILL RECEIVE AN EMAIL WITH ALL THE INFORMACION NEEDED TO APPLU, AFTER ACCEPTANCE YOU WILL RECIVE OUR EXPEDITION DOSSIE.