An unfathomably large (New Jersey-sized) swath of protected wonderland gushing with green mountain vistas, white sand waterfalls, cola-colored rivers, one of the highest concentrations of species endemism on the planet, a tantalizing lost network of historic trails… and virtually no tourism.

Welcome to the spectacular, undiscovered Mosaic of the Espinhaço: 19 adjacent conservation units (including a National Park, multiple State & Municipal Parks, and other reserves) totaling 5 million acres of protected Cerrado (Brazilian Savannah) & Mata Atlântica (Atlantic Rainforest), with little to no tourism infrastructure.

For lovers of nature, culture, history, outdoor sports, and (let’s just say it) life itself, this is the stuff of dreams.

It’s difficult to overstate just how rich the Espinhaço is in terms of biodiversity. The range accounts for less than 1% of Brazil’s national territory, yet is thought to contain over 7% of its species, including an estimated 3,000+ endemic plants & animals.

Unfortunately, the Cerrado (one of the 2 larger terrestrial biomes to which the Espinhaço Meridional belongs) is being deforested at a rate more than double that of the Amazon, and has experienced a pronounced decline in rainfall during recent decades.

Enjoy it while it’s here, like this, right now.

Getting from point A to Point B has always been an adventure in the Espinhaço, and nowhere is this more evident than along its spectacular—and viturally empty—network of historic trails.

3 types of trails predominate the backcountry here: remarkable, colonial-era stone pathways built by slaves to facilitate the diamond trade along the Estrada Real; bush trails pioneered by mule-driving tropeiros to facilitate regional commerce; and centuries-old descaminhos blazed by diamond smugglers and later revisited by 18th century naturalists (including Richard Francis Burton & Augustin Saint-Hilaire).

Our team has spent 4 years rediscovering this lost network, documenting its history, nature & inhabitants, and charting our expeditions. As much as we’ve loved having the trails to ourselves, it’s an even greater pleasure to share them with other curious, adventurous minds.

UNESCO World Heritage City; Terminus of the fabled Estrada Real; Bastion of Portuguese colonial architecture; former diamond-mining capital of the world; and shining exemplar of the “diamond in the rough” cliché.

Somehow, little Diamantina (pop. 49,500) manages to be all this and more (burgeoning college town; “musical city of Minas”; hometown of Juscelino Kubisheck and Chica da Silva; etc.), while remaining virtually undiscovered even by mineiros.

Add it all up, and you have a bonafide world traveler’s dream: a tourist mecca without tourists, smack in the middle of one of the most enchanting settings on earth.

Take it from us: Attempting to count the waterfalls of the Espinhaço is an exercise in futility. Just as futile: trying to spend consecutive days on the trail without bathing in one.

We’ll cross paths with at least a dozen named falls during our Expedition, from soothing cascades to show-stopping masterpieces, and everything in between.

“Ice-cold” has never felt so good.

The region’s undisputed icon, Pico do Itambé (elev. 2,052 m) towers over the region like a citadel, living up to its billing as “the roof of the Espinhaço”.

Protruding over 1,102 meters over the surrounding peaks, it draws a hard line between the Rio Jequitinhonha & Rio Doce river basins and a soft line between the Atlantic Rainforest & Cerrado biomes.

Taking in the views after a challenging climb (on Day 5) is one of the most satisfying & memorable moments of our journey, as is the golden hour descent. And then there’s the wild night hike that follows…

Tropeiro. Torresmo. Frango com quiabo. If you’re unfamiliar with comida mineira, you will be by the end of the trip—and Brazilians everywhere will be jealous. Among the culinary treats unique to the Serra do Espinhaço: angu, quitanda, samambaia, and queijo do Serro.

We’ll have the privilege of arriving to piping hot plates of highly-caloric, lovingly-made meals—prepared by skilled hands & well-seasoned cast-iron pots over wood-fired stoves—throughout our Expedition, with a pair of more sophisticated offerings in Diamantina to book-end the trip.

Throw in a few ice-cold Antarcticas (one of the more popular national beer labels) and, well, let’s just say we rarely meet our weight-loss goals during trips. It’s worth it. Bom apetit!

The trails will challenge us, and the peaks & waterfalls will leave us in awe, but in our experience, it’s the time we spend breaking bread with local families—sometimes well into the night—that provides the most enriching & memorable moments of our Expedition. It’s impossible to come away unimpressed by the foreign, often rustic conditions, and resilient, welcoming disposition of each of the many households we’ll visit.

As if good company, unique accommodations, and home-cooked meals weren’t reason enough to embrace the experience, our patronage provides precious income opportunities for each of the households we visit—several of whose livelihoods changed dramatically in recent decades with the decline in mining—and helps build a culture that values the region’s overlooked history & natural environment.

We’ll stay in an incredibly diverse array of unique & memorable places during our Expedition. We’re willing to bet that, years from now, it will be the homestays that still cross your mind daily.

The namesake flower of Sempre Vivas National Park is as inextricably linked to the history, economy, and identity of the Serra do Espinhaço as the diamonds that sustained the region before it. Sixty of the estimated 100 species in existence have been documented within the Park’s borders—eight of which are found no place else on earth.

Harvesting these flowers—an activity that UNESCO has designated a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System (GIAHS)—is more than a means of income for many in the region, its a way of life.

We won’t engage in any flower harvesting during our Expedition, but we’ll see plenty of gorgeous specimens along the trail. With enchanting shapes that range from tiny buttons & stars to tree-like stalks with giant globes, flower-spotting has a way of making even the most arduous days on the trail joyous. We dare you not to get excited each time we pass one up close.

If you’ve ever dreamed of steadying a sturdy steed through the brush, rivers, and rocky mountain passes of the Brazilian hinterlands, now’s your chance: our epic traverse of the steep & spectacular Mato dos Crioulos region on Day 7 can be done on either foot or horseback.

If you prefer to do the hoofing yourself, know that we’ll have also pack mules on hand during Day 7 to help ease the load (should you decide to relinquish your pack).

Regardless of whose hooves are moving, we recommend you catch your breath, take in the scenery, and immerse in the Espinhaço’s long & storied tradition of tropeirismo and cavalgadas.

Minas Gerais is Brazil’s heartland, and mineiros (the state’s denizens) play the part of heartland hosts to a “T”. Easy-going, down-to-earth, and famously chatty, with a well-documented love of food (especially comida mineira, of course) & drink (some of Brazil’s best cachaça & craft brews come from Minas), mineiros are to “friendly” what paulistas (residents of São Paulo) are to “fast-paced” and cariocas (folks from Rio) are to “care-free”.

Generally speaking, you won’t find a kinder or more welcoming bunch anywhere in Brazil.

It doesn’t matter how you get there or from which direction you come, the Serra da Maravilha (literally, Marvelous Mountain) is a sight to behold.

Strikingly similar to Rio’s Sugarloaf Mountain—but with 1,000,000+ less visitors per year—the postcard-perfect mountain and nearby hamlet of the same name (pop. < 10) are little known even in the immediate region.

We’ll have the privilege of taking in the scene from a variety of angles during our epic journey on Day 3.

The region’s first & most celebrated conservation unit, Rio Preto State Park harbors over 26,000 acres of immaculate cerrado, including a pristine stretch of its namesake river & a pair of striking waterfalls.

We’ll spend 3 glorious days—including our lone Rest Day on Day 8—traversing the Park, from its hauntingly beautiful (and little-visited) southern reaches to its spectacular, water-blessed north, passing along sweeping canyons, steep escarpments, fast-moving rivers, funky hoodoos, and all manner of rocky outcrops along the way. If it weren’t for the flowing fields of campo limpo and sparkling groves of sempre-vivas, you might swear we were in the U.S. Southwest.

It’s is a feast for the senses, and the perfect place to rest our weary feet for the homestretch of our Expedition.

The peaks & Parks get more glory, but nothing shaped this region or brought more fortune & glory more than the rivers that run through it, and none more so than the Jequitinhonha. Solemn yet dignified even after centuries of callous abuse, the river’s crystalline waters once ran rich enough with gemstones to both buoy a distant empire and cradle a young nation. Today, irreparably scarred & forgotten, it remains forgiving enough to provide an economic lifeline for 500,000 Brazilians living downstream.

In theory, we’ll cross enough rivers, creeks, and streams during our Expedition for it to “get old”, but there’s something about gazing on the Jequitinhonha from its banks, then stepping into it, that will always be special.

You’ll get to experience it for yourself during our wild & unforgettable Day 3.

Located just a stone’s throw (and a wild hair?) away from 50,000 lively residents, with 42,000 acres of lush cerrado, dozens of miles of well-kept trails, a pair of highly Instagrammable (and swimmable) waterfalls, and a historic textile mill-turned-gated community of the same name, it’s no wonder that Biribiri State Park is the most visited conservation unit in the Espinhaço.

While its location adjacent to Diamantina can make the Park (& its pub) a bit of a hotspot for locals during weekends & holidays, the vast majority of visitors tend to stick to the road & roadside waterfalls, meaning there’s a good chance we’ll have one last day (Day 11) of gloriously empty trails before making our descent into Diamantina.

Historic yet modern, urban yet rural, rustic yet comfortable, and surrounded by agua, serra, and cerrado, Biribiri is an unbeatable place to spend the penultimate night of our Expedition, and our final evening on the trail together.

One of the ironies of summiting mighty Itambé (on Day 5) is that the epic view on top lacks Itambé itself.

Meanwhile, just some 20 km away, the much smaller & more approachable Pico do Raio (literally, Lightning Peak; 1,387 meters) presents an unbeatable view of not only Itambé, but of the nearby colonial hamlets of Sao Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras, Milho Verde, and Capivari, as well.

When you consider that its base lies on one of the most beautiful stretches of trail in the region and includes a white sand beach, gently flowing waterfall, and natural infinity pool… well, it could at least be argued that the experience gives Itambé a run for its money.

You’ll have the chance to see for yourself on Day 4.

Even in a region chock-full of picture perfect colonial-era towns, São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras manages to feel special. Serro’s largest district is rustic, yet elegant; simple, yet mysterious; with a tranquility that lends itself to restful healing and a vibrance that beckons further exploration. There is magic in the air here, and its residents know it.

Arriving in town after nightfall on Day 3 is literally the stuff we live for; a storybook ending to an epic day on the trail.

You may arrive exhausted, but if you’re anything like us, you’ll rarely have felt so alive.

Welcome to the Story of Brazil.

Twin peaks, attached at the hip, tower over the wind-swept high plateau at the southern edge of Rio Preto State Park, diving the Black and Araçuai in the process.

Known by locals for centuries as Serra Grande (literally, “Big Mountain”; residents of the valley below could only see the taller of the twins), Two Brothers Peak (1,825 m) is not only the 3rd highest in the Espinhaço Meridional, but (unlike Itambé) a true pleasure to summit, with a long and gradual approach giving way to a refreshingly short ascent and stunning 360-degree view that more than makes up for the effort.

If our pace is good, you’ll have the chance to take it all in during Golden Hour on Day 6. As a bonus, there’s nothing quite like finding our way back, headlamps blazing, to Mozart’s tiny ranch house in the dark.

The discovery of diamonds in the Espinhaço dramatically changed the fortunes of not only Europe, but of Africa. Today’s quilombola communities—semi-autonomous backcountry settlements founded by slaves or their descendants prior to the 19th century—bear witness.

The Jequitinhona River Valley (of which Diamantina is the capital) is home to more than 80 official quilombola communities—and many more unofficial ones—dozens of which dot the Espinhaço.

Sleepy, unpretentious, and near-universally backdropped by stunning scenery (early founders were often rural workers on remote ranches, or former slaves who sought to move as far from civilized areas as possible), they provide an unforgettable glimpse into the diverse cultural landscape of the Espinhaço and Brazil, at large.

We’ll have the privilege of passing through a number of quilombola villages during our Expedition, overnighting in 2 of them. It’s an unmissable experience.

Most of Brazil’s colonial-era roads (and certainly the most beautiful ones) were built by slaves, but in the Espinhaço, the term Caminho dos Escravos (literally, Slave Way) refers specifically to an impressive 20km stretch of path leading north from Diamantina to the tiny mining village of Mendanha (pop. 639).

As notorious for its steep trajectory as it is for its checkered history (slave-drivers, bandits, and miners comprised most of its foot traffic), the Caminho stands as a stark reminder of what Brazil was—and how it got there—and features numerous stretches of remarkably well-preserved roadway.

We’ll have the privilege of walking part of the Caminho on two separate occasions: first, on Day 10 en route to Biribiri, and later, on Day 11, to conclude our trek. It’s difficult to imagine a more profound or perfect way to end any journey in this part of the world.

From diamonds & stately architecture to former presidents & raucous Carnaval celebrations, Diamantina has more than its fair share of claims to fame. It’s a bit ironic (and endearing?), then, that its most beloved tradition has become the humble Vesperata, a festive nighttime open-air serenade by the hometown band. (Plot twist: the musicians are the ones up in the windows & on verandas, while those of us getting serenaded are down on the street).

We’ll have the immense privilege of catching a Vesperata on the evening of Day 13. Prepare yourself for an unforgettable evening of Beatles, samba & bossa nova, Musica Popular Brasileira (MPB), and sing-along wedding rock tunes.

There isn’t a party on earth where we’d rather celebrate the final night of our Expedition together.

280 km (overland transfer)

21 km (trek) | 1271 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 1 waterfall

22 km (trek) | 1949 m cum. elev. gain + loss

15.3 km (trek) | 1109 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 2+ waterfalls

22.9 km (trek) | 2257 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 1+ waterfall

30 km (trek) | 2018 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 1+ waterfall

18 km (trek) | 1198 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 2 waterfalls

Rest Day | 0 km (hiking optional) | 3+ waterfalls

29 km (trek) / 1766 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 1 waterfall

17 km (trek) | 1008 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 3+ waterfalls

15.5 km (trek) | 1768 m cum. elev. gain + loss | 1+ waterfall

280 km (overland transfer)

Pousadas (small, family-run inns) are synonymous with travel in Brazil—the kind of rare institution capable of transcending socioeconomic & generational particulars.

Welcoming hosts, charming personal touches (many establishments are the lifelong dreams of their owners), and (at least) all of the necessary amenities are par for the course, with café da manha, in particular, often being a source of great pride.

We’ll have the privilege of staying at 5 incredibly unique pousadas during our Expedition, from chic historic inns to low-key country charmers. By & large, they represent some of our very places to sleep—and eat!—in the region.

Bom descanso!

The trails will challenge us, and the peaks & waterfalls will leave us in awe, but in our experience, it’s the time we spend breaking bread with local families—sometimes well into the night—that provides the most enriching & memorable moments of any trip in this part of the world.

As if good company, unique accommodations, and home-cooked meals weren’t reason enough to embrace the experience, our patronage provides precious income opportunities for each of the households we visit—many of whose livelihoods changed dramatically in recent decades with the decline in mining—and helps build a culture that values the region’s overlooked history & natural environment.

We’ll stay in an incredibly diverse array of unique & memorable places during our Expedition. We’re willing to bet that, years from now, it will be the homestays that still cross your mind daily.

State Park lodgings tend to be hit-or-miss affairs in Brazil, with many Parks lacking (or perhaps mismanaging) the funds necessary to provide appetizing public facilities.

Rio Preto is not one of those Parks. With dozens of expertly located, simple but well-kept “chalets” (think: “rooms”), the Park is not only among the most beautiful in Minas, it’s also considered the gold standard in the Espinhaço in terms of administration.

We’ll have the pleasure of spending 3 full days & nights (including our lone dedicated Rest Day) in the Park, including a pair of nights at the main visitor’s area.

With virtually endless nearby water attractions (pristine swimming holes, waterfalls, white sand beaches, etc.), a well-groomed grilling area, and a sometimes bustling restaurant & bar, it’s the perfect place to rest our weary feet before Day 9’s demanding trek.

As AirBnB can attest, sometimes the best way to experience a place is as one of the neighbors. We’ll have the privilege of overnighting in an incredibly quaint, traditional residence in the colonial-era tropeiro town of Curralinho on Day 2.

Unlike homestays (in which the household is present & receives us), our group will have the place all to ourselves, allowing us to literally make ourselves at home.

Curralinho is small enough where all of the good stuff (in our case, the restaurant, main square, and bar) is just a few steps away, meaning we should have plenty of time in the evening to celebrate, reflect, and rest up for what promises to be an epic Day 3.

In our minds, the best accommodations are paradoxical by nature, simultaneously tasked with providing us a safe haven from the strange world outside our door and an intimate glimpse into that very world.

Perhaps not so coincidentally, this notion perfectly describes the wilderness refuge where we’ll be sleeping on Day 6 of our Expedition.

Nestled in a valley between pristine streams & cerrado forests atop a lonesome plateau far from civilization, “Mozart’s house” is at once the most bare-bones place where we’ll be laying our heads during this trip (think: roof, walls, and front door) and the most profound.

If you like starry evenings & the sound of crickets, frogs, and other critters—or if you prefer your accommodations have stories & soul—you’re in the right place.

Expedition Leader + Translator (Full-Time)

The bumper sticker on his ‘89 Toyota Bandeirante (Brazilian Land Cruiser) may read “Lost Texan”, but don’t be fooled: Dallas-born Eddie has dedicated himself to the study of Brazilian history, society, and geography for the better part of two decades. He first “rediscovered” the Serra do Espinhaço in 2018, and has been exploring its labyrinth of lost trails and documenting its resilient inhabitants & enchanting landscapes ever since, becoming arguably the region’s most well-versed foreigner in a century during the process. The only thing he enjoys more than exploring this spectacular & little-known part of the world is bringing it to life for other adventurous & culturally curious travelers.

Expedition Leader + Translator (Full-Time)

The first time Elisa encountered the daunting “roads” of São Gonçalo do Rio das Pedras during a fateful weekend getaway in 2019, she swore to her mom she would never come back. These days, she can’t seem to leave the Espinhaço, having spent the better part of her life since then driving all manner of backroads—usually with various drones, satellite devices, emergency contacts, and communications equipment in tow—in a gangly leaf-sprung 4x4 named “Gaucha”. Bringing itineraries of this scope to life in this part of the world requires steadfast determination, impeccable planning, outstanding communication, and (lots of) patience. The rest of us just require Elisa.

Regional Guide + Naturalist (Full-Time)

The difference between a good guide and a great one is the calling, and in Julio’s case, there was never a question. Passionate, dedicated, and bursting with the knowledge, energy, and conviction necessary to make the world a better place, he’s both a natural-born mountain guide & a natural-born man for others. You’ll get to witness him put both of these callings, as well as his prolific knowledge of the flora, fauna, and geography of the Espinhaço, to use throughout our Expedition. When the brush is thick and snakes abound, the sunlight is dimming and there are still long kilometers ahead, there’s no one on earth we’d rather have by our side.

Driver + Support Guide (Full-Time)

The eldest son of Diamantina’s most celebrated 4x4 dynasty, Xaxau, like his brother André, is adventure nobility without the pretension. In addition to being one of the region’s most seasoned mechanics & welders, he happens to be an expert rider of horses, motorcycles, and (lucky for us) old 4x4s. As our Expedition’s full-time support driver, we’ll hope not to see too much of Xaxau or “Gaucha” (our primary support vehicle) during our days on the trail, but it’s the moments when you don’t see him—when he’s driving parallel to our route—that puts our minds to ease. There aren’t many folks on earth we would trust with our lives. We trust Xaxau.

Driver + Support Guide (Full-Time)

A soft-spoken, big city-loving motorcycle enthusiast born into (decidedly small town) Diamantina’s most celebrated family of 4x4 mechanics, “Dezinho”, like his brother Xaxau, is adventure nobility without the pretension. He’s also a remarkable motorcycle pilot, as well as a devoted part-time P.E. teacher(!). As the official dirt bike support driver of our Expedition, we’ll hope to not see too much of André during our days on the trail, but it’s his constant, reassuring presence along the roads parallel to our route that allows us to push forwards with confidence. In the unlikely event of an emergency, there isn’t anyone we’d rather have close by.

Local Guide / Horseman / Mule Driver

A local legend on par with the iconic mountain that towers above his remote abode, Santo has become synonymous with the spectacular crossing from Bica d’Agua to Rio Preto State Park. Stoic & hardened, yet soft-spoken & graceful, his backcountry skills are second to none (and his camp grub isn’t half-bad, either). There’s nothing on earth—let alone in the Espinhaço—like arriving at he & his wife, Dona Maria’s, beautiful, humble abode in paradisical Bica d’Agua after climbing (and descending) Itambé on Day 5. We’ll then trek (or ride) alongside him during Day 6 as we make our way to the region’s 2nd highest peak. If you see the man break a sweat, please let us know.

Local Guide

On expeditions as in life, you should always seek to surround yourself with resilient, kind-hearted souls who have done it themselves and want to see you succeed. This is especially true when summiting foreign peaks, and when said souls have the kind of legs capable of powering up & down said peak 1,000+ times per year for two decades. Hailing from a family of Itambé guardians in nearby Capivarí, and now a full-time ranger in the State Park himself, it’s fair to say that Genésio knows Itambé better than anyone on earth. We’ll have the pleasure of walking alongside him on his home turf during Day 5 of our Expedition.

Support Driver

A year abroad in Australia taught Michel—then a biology undergrad—the power of travel, and convinced him that his hometown of Diamantina deserved to be rediscovered by the world. Since then, he’s become one of the Espinhaço’s most renown photographers, documenting its storied history and sharing striking portraits in publications like The Guardian, National Geographic Brazil, and more. You’ll get to experience his passion for cultura mineira and the good life in the Espinhaço throughout our Expedition as he transports supplies & gear to our front-country accommodations.

Transfer Driver (Days 1 & 14)

When we meet at Tancredo Neves International Airport (the rendezvous point for all of our trips in the Espinhaço) on Day 1, you’ll be forgiven for thinking we’ve brought along a personal security detail. Towering, stoic, and probably wearing a sharp pair of aviator sunglasses, our Crew’s official overland Driver, Caio, was formerly a professional mixed martial artist in his hometown of Montes Claros. Now the proud owner of a local taxi service, he is exactly the kind of serious, enterprising, and (most relevantly) punctual individual that this city—er, our Crew—needs. We’ll have the pleasure of riding with Caio to & from the airport to bookend your trip.